A New Lease Of Life For Jigs And Reels: The Temple Bar Trad Fest 2010

It may strike some people as a bit of an anomaly to have a traditional Irish music festival in Dublin’s Temple Bar area. I know some of you are thinking stag parties and noisy not necessarily quality music. It is all the more astonishing that for the fifth time in a row Temple Bar Trad Fest managed to bring some of the best up-and-coming and established Irish and international traditional musicians to the big smoke.

Here is my list of recommendations if you missed the recent trad party:

Parsec
Hailing from Limerick but with passports from France, Austria and Italy – a lively, creative, jazzy sound, definitely one to watch

Líadan
Six energetic ladies from Galway and Limerick – a whirlwind of jigs and reels as well as some lovely sean-nós songs

Lo Cor de la Plana
Awesome all male band from Marseille – singing in the Occitan language, their tambourine sound rocked the Button Factory

Finbar Furey
Doesn’t really need any explanation, legendary ballad singer and it was obvious why – total stage presence, brilliant sense of humour and a natural storyteller

I did not have that much time to check out many of the other events this year, but attended a brilliant songwriting workshop with Eleanor McEvoy organised by IMRO. She really knows her stuff and packed an awful lot of information and advice into the two hours we had. If you haven’t listened to her song ‘Sophie’ yet, you can do so here.

All in all a varied and intriguing festival programme. However, if I had one wish for 2011: let’s please, please have a more userfriendly website!

How to … de-stress during the hectic countdown to Christmas

It’s that time of the year again when it’s dark in the mornings on the way to work and dark when we get home from the office at night. While I just want to hide under a blanket during these bleak months, Christmas is also fast approaching – in fact at lightening speed! On top of that, there are all those pesky little things that need to be ticked off towards the end of the year, such as my tax return, renewing my health insurance and my TV licence, making a dentist appointment, handing in uni assignments, all that ‘fun’ stuff. Sigh.

When I’m having one of those low energy days, just thinking about all the above makes my heart sink a little. That’s why I’ve collected my favourite de-stress and relaxation tips, quizzed my friends about theirs (thanks everyone!) and listed them below. You are probably using similar strategies yourself. If your favourites are not on my list and you’d like to share them, do leave a comment!

‘Me’ time
- put up things around the house that make you smile (holiday mementos, pictures of friends and family or snapshots of yourself as a child) or prominently displayed signs (on the desk, bathroom mirror etc.) that say “inner calm” or whatevery your favourite mantra is that helps you relax

- keep a journal or create a scrapbook

- dance in your living room because putting your favourite music on just for yourself and dancing or singing along to a really cheerful tune will put you instantly in a better mood

- try not to mull over emotional issues if you are tired

- indulge in your favourite chocolate (or hot chocolate with Baileys) without feeling guilty – my tip is to buy really fancy chocolate, because if it’s quality chocolate you will automatically eat less of it and the more cocoa content it contains the healthier it is anyway

Bedtime Rituals
- light a few candles in the evening as they give any living room or bathroom a lovely soft glow and help you to relax (make sure you put any candles out before you got to bed and NEVER light a candle in your bedroom as they are a real fire hazard)

- buy the fluffiest bed socks, bathrobe or hot water bottle with the softest cover you can find, the year has 365 nights and in Ireland many of those are pretty cold, so it’s an investment that you definitely won’t regret

- buy a room spray which is made of only natural ingredients, I use lavender in my bedroom and a mix of orange, lemon and frangipani for when I’m studying

- go to bed half an hour earlier than usual and if you read before going to sleep make sure it is something lighthearted or inspirational

During The Work Week
- go to a pilates or yoga class before or after work to warm up your muscles and relax your body

- if you feel you have too much on your plate, spend five minutes making a list of the things you need to do and sort them according to priority, ideally at the end of your work day, so the next one already starts with a bit less stress

- if you enjoy being in the water, swimming is really good for the soul (especially if the pool is part of a spa or has a steam room attached), if you can’t track one down close to your workplace or home, turn your bathtub into your personal spa, just add candles, relaxing music, bubble bath

- don’t take on other people’s stress or bad energy, be supportive, but always keep your own boundaries in mind as well

- one of the things that really keep me from panicking when I am snowed under with work is to only ever tackle the issues of that particular day and pushing aside any thoughts of the ones that can be dealt with the following day

With Friends And Family
- think of what you really value in life by e.g. drinking a second cup of tea with a friend (camomile or lavender work best for calming the nerves) instead of rushing away to buy Christmas presents half an hour before the shops close

- spend a Sunday afternoon with others making your own Christmas cards or Christmas decorations while playing your favourite music

- don’t get stressed out by the commercial side of Christmas, it’s much more important that it’s a time to remember what we cherish about our loved ones

- cooking a healthy meal or baking cookies together with a good friend is something that really helps me relax

- watch a really great comedy with a few friends (nothing beats a good laugh when it comes to beating stress) and stock up on some especially nice wine or beer for the occasion

At The Weekend
- book a city trip, e.g. to Budapest where they have some amazing thermal baths, I love making happy plans for the future, as they already make me happy at the time of planning them

- get a change of scenery, take a walk in the woods or the nearest park, sit still in the fresh air for a few minutes and listen to the sounds of nature around you, it calms you almost instantly

- get a massage from your partner, give someone a massage yourself or make an appointment at the massage place down the road (trust me, even just booking the appointment will make you feel better)

- if you happen to be this organised, aim to buy all your pressies before December

- meditate, in its simplest form this only requires a few minutes of complete silence without any distractions, concentrating on your breathing and trying to think about nothing (which can be the hardest thing sometimes)

- walk your dog if you have one, ‘borrow’ one if you don’t or pet the neighbour’s cat like I do

- spend some time with children, they take every day as it comes and are brilliant at reminding us that there is fun or an adventure to be had even on the rainiest of days

A Chocoholic’s Wonderland: the Temple Bar Chocolate Festival 2009

If I had to describe a perfect day, yesterday would come pretty close to it.  I spent most of my time at various Temple Bar Chocolate Festival events, which I thought were all, without exception, 10 out of 10!

First up was a chocolate making demonstration by French chocolatier Benoit Lorge , who has an artisan chocolate making business in Bonane, near Kenmare, in Co. Kerry. The workshop in the Morgan Hotel included basic chocolate knowledge, a demonstration of how to make chocolates (Benoit uses Valhrona) and afterwards my head was spinning with words like crystallisation points, retraction, ganache, nibs, pellets and pods. There were oohs and aaahs all around when we got to taste some of the delicacies and learned what mistakes to avoid when making chocolates ourselves.

Benoit Lorge at work with fascinated onlookers waiting for their turn to taste his chocolate disks

After that I attended a talk by Willie Harcourt-Cooze in the Button Factory, known to most of us from his Channel 4 hit documentary series ‘Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Factory’ (and he has a very interesting background too). When I was watching it at the time I remember thinking that family must have been through quite a lot in order for Willie’s dream to come true. In fact, they’re the perfect example of how doggedly holding onto your dream is the only way to go, but that far from this being a fairytale story, making chocolate is also a seriously tough business. Luckily their persistance paid off in the end and Willie brought along a few samples for everyone in the – clearly delighted – audience (see proof below, also managed to get one of the cocoa sacks which emanates a gorgeous cocoa bean smell which I just adooooore). Their amazing 11-year journey from the UK to Venezuela and back to Devon was definitely worth it as far as I can see. We also got to taste a cocoa bean from the first production stage and some of the roasted nibs. Forget dried fruit, these could be the natural snack of the future!

I heard that Willie’s chocolates are being sold at Fallon & Byrne, Avoca and Harvey Nichols just in case you were wondering (like myself)

The third workshop was by Fairtrade chocolate company Divine Chocolate. During the hour-long talk about the history of chocolate and how Divine source their cocoa (mainly from Ghana, 40% of the company is actually owned by cocoa farmers) 800 grams of dark Divine chocolate together with a few hundred mils of cream made it into two huge cooking bowls, which were then handed around (a chocolate worshipping ceremony of sorts) until even the last bit was gone. This meant the workshop was not only the most calorific one of the day, but also the one with the most unusal chocolate facts, e.g.:

- the biggest chocolate easter egg ever made was more than 8 metres high
- chocolate is actually poisonous for dogs and (for some reason) parrots
- it is still (technically) illegal for women to eat chocolate on public transport in the UK (hm must research that one sometime!)

From the left (all gone by now!): Natasha’s Living Foods cocoa nib truffle, The Chocolate Fairy Willie’s Dark truffle, Benoit Lorge’s Baileys Truffle and The Chocolate Fairy’s Chai Espresso Truffle (most original one of the day I’d say)

With a happy, chocolatey smile on my face I made may way down to the New Theatre for my last chocolate-themed event of the day: a reading by local authors, which was of course also all about chocolate! I must say that at that stage, I was glad the chocolate stayed on the pages of the stories and poems we were treated to on the night. They were altogether delightful, though-provoking and some of the funniest anecdotes I’ve heard in a long time.

After singing my heart out at a friend’s Halloween Party later on (which I convinced myself must have burned all the extra calories this chocoholic blogger ingested yesterday), I headed down to the chocolate market this morning to do some more (ehem) field research. Here are some of the lovely people I met and the delightful delicacies I tasted. Trust me, when it comes to running a successful chocolate business, customer service is definitely half the battle and these artisan Irish producers are the best example of it!

Beatrice and Jamie O’Neill of Choc O’Neill – one of their bestsellers are yummy truffles made with fresh mint from their own garden during the summer

Chef and chocolatier Mary Teehan of The Truffle Fairy showing off her delicious wares – including truffles made from Willie’s Venezuelan cocoa

So what did I take away from my chocoholic weekend in Temple Bar (apart from the obvious…)? Chocolate used to be a medicine and a currency, is said to be an aphrodisiac and has certainly got a lot of fans out there. However, chocolate is not just any old sweet or even a market commodity. There are people in poorer countries who work very very hard to provide us with the basic ingredients for a luxury we are able to indulge in whenever we feel like it.

What impressed me most was that all the people who took part in the festival were totally and utterly passionate about chocolate. In this world, so many of the things we eat, touch and use everyday come from impersonal production lines in huge factories. After a weekend like this, I feel really priviledged to be able to have another choice. And, as they say, the proof is most certainly in the (dark chocolate ganache) pudding.

Accessible Architecture: Open House Dublin 2009

For a long weekend every autumn Open House Dublin offers free tours of buildings most of which are normally not accessible to the public. Architects and other volunteers do guided tours of fascinating houses, give museum talks and hold debates for everyone who cares about Dublin’s architecture. The programme is impressive and incredibly all the events are free.

The Green Room at the Gate

I managed to make it to a few of the tours on offer this year. As I love Eileen Gray’s work I thoroughly enjoyed the tour through her permanent exhibition at Collins Barracks. I also attended a debate provocatively entitled ‘Can Architecture Save the World?’ which brought up some very interesting issues to do with living spaces, urban lifestyles, health and innovation.

The Hospitality Room at the Gate

I also did a tour of the Irish Aid building in order to understand the thoughts behind its concept a bit better. It always struck me as cold and quite intimidating coming in from the street for the first time. Many of my friends seemed to have never even heard of it (it’s located at the top of O’Connell Street). Getting insight into its design and what the architect had to work with to make it work given the existing structure helped to answer a few of my questions. I still think the information/reading area should be moved to the front, so passers-by can see that it is a place to get information about the work Irish Aid does and volunteering opportunities abroad.

Tour of The Law Society

On the Sunday I managed to see the Law Society at the bottom of Stoneybatter/Smithfield, which, interestingly, used to be a school and at the time it was built was more or less situated at the very edge of Dublin. I also got a fantastic tour of the Gate Theatre by its very approachable and enthusiastic front manager (fair play to him, didn’t expect so much dedication at all). We got to see the whole backstage area, the hospitality room for guests, the green room (my favourite of all the green rooms I’ve seen so far and it actually IS green) and he even let us climb behind the set to get a view of the auditorium, all very impressive. The new wing with a purpose-built rehearsal space and various offices must be such a relief for them given the tiny space the existing building offers.

Kaethe Burt-O’Dea giving a tour of the Sitric Road Community Compost Garden

The most unusual tour was surely that of the Sitric Community Compost Garden just off Manor Street. How lovely to turn the corner and to discover this little green jem hidden away just metres away from the hustle and bustle of the main street.

Definitely my animal picture of the month!

There is also an adorable little corner shop, Lilliput Press occupies a building at the corner and the Joinery art space/gallery is also in the same area. Was extremely impressed by all of it and it reminded me so much of San Fran or Amsterdam, both with neighbourhood communities who dare to be creative, open-minded, inclusive and fun. Just loved it!

The World On A Stage: The Dublin Theatre Festival 2009

I was very impressed with what Mark Fisher of the Guardian Theatre Blog had to say about the Ulster Bank Dublin Theatre Festival. It is true that Dublin not only manages to present an astonishing mix of Irish and international quality shows on its stages every autumn. I also agree that the Dublin audiences are world-class, enthusiastically welcoming arts and culture into their lives throughout the year. Politicians and economists take note.  If that is not proof enough for the arts being an integral part of the Irish economy, I wonder what is.

Having been a volunteer with the festival for the third year in a row it is great fun to be part of a cultural event which not only caters for the traditionalists but also for the theatre-goers who enjoy the more challenging shows.

I ended up seeing a good handful of plays in various venues. The Manganiyar Seduction was a blast of sound for world music enthusiasts creatively staged to give each section of the ‘band’ equal emphasis (the four singing boys on the top ‘floor’ of the construct were the icing on the cake!). Three Sisters (in Russian with English surtitles) impressed true Chekhov fans with faultless and authentic acting. The  Pitmen Painters was thought-provoking and entertaining at the same time. To Be Straight With You and Silver Stars were both incredibly moving and challenged the audience to think about discrimination and inclusion. Buck Jones And The Body Snatchers was possibly the most lighthearted of all the plays, taking place in a Georgian house on Pearse St with the audience following the actors around the building from scene to scene. And I was sad to have missed Goodbye Mr Muffin, a fabulous kids show for the theatre enthusiasts of the future.

All in all another successful year. I ran into some familiar faces (other longstanding volunteers), got to know a few new people and Gay Byrne almost bought a programme off me. Now that would have really made my day.

The festival’s official website: http://www.dublintheatrefestival.com/
The festival blog: http://www.dublintheatrefestival.com/Blog/

As Sweet As Apples Dipped In Honey: Leonard Cohen’s 75th birthday gig in Barcelona

I’ve just written a couple of paragraphs on how I felt after my return from the Leonard Cohen concert in Barcelona on 21st September (his 75th birthday) and then promptly scrapped them again. Firstly, I couldn’t type as fast as my thoughts kept bubbling out of me and, secondly, they somehow didn’t even come close to what I really wanted to express.  So instead I’ve picked a few thoughts shared by others during the days after the gig. They really moved me and collectively give you an idea of the magic we experienced that Monday night in September on the top of the hill of Montjuic in Barcelona, one of my favourite cities in the world.

From a young Spanish fan:

AMAZING!!!!!!!! My heart is still beating, my legs still trembling, my arms still shaking!!!!! I know many people around here have seen Leonard many many times but for me… tonight has been a dream come true! I’m only 22… (BloodBrother)

From a couple whose first Leonard concert it was:

Barcelona was our first Leonard Cohen concert, an anniversary present to ourselves, we have been fans for many years. The whole evening was such a fantastic emotional experience that we didn’t want it to end, but of course it had to. Even getting pickpocketed the next day in the Parc Guell did not take the shine off our stay in Barcelona. …It has been five days now and still the music flows through my head, how can I get it to stop… (shazzan01)

Reply by another forum member:

It won’t stop. I saw Len in July & I’m still on a high from that gig. (musicmania)

On Leonard and the band:

 …something has happened over the months. They are more than Leonard and the band/singers. They are family. They have also become “family” to us, and because of that, the concerts are now something transcendent. Above and beyond the norm. (ladydi)

And this one which still brings tears to my eyes when I read it:

An old man sitting in my row appeared to be in floods of tears throughout the second half of the concert. I looked again carefully and noticed that the man was me. (abeggarleaning)

All quotes taken from http://www.leonardcohenforum.com

This is a recent Irish Times article by Eamon Maher on the effect Leonard’s music can have on us: ‘Cohen’s songs of suffering move us with power similar to prayer’

P.S. My most favourite of all the favourite moments during the concert was when Leonard sang Suzanne. All of us who had been at the forum meet-up in Barcelona that afternoon got given thin green candles (because in his song ‘One Of Us Cannot Be Wrong’ it says ‘I lit a thin green candle, to make you jealous of me’) and had agreed to light them when Suzanne came on. It was the most touching thing to feel connected to the 120+ others dotted around the place who were holding their candles up like little beacons of gratitude illuminating the darkness of the concert hall. Here is some footage of it.

Some more videos from the concert can be found here.

And this is how Dino Soldo, one of Leonard’s fabulous band members, commented about our candles on twitter:

To all the friends in Leonard Cohen’s Barcelona gig; Your Birthday candles brought a tear to my eye. He was touched. 

When Leonard said goodbye to us that night in Barcelona with a traditional Jewish wish for a sweet new year ‘may your life be sweet as apples dipped in honey’ we were left with a mixture of utter elation and gratefulness yet also more than just a touch of sadness. Who knows if or when we would ever see him again? But I guess life is as much about celebrating its joyful moments as it is about being able to let go of what we deeply cherish and accepting it as something we cannot hold onto forever. What we can hold onto for as long as we live, however, is our treasured memories (see also my post on Leonard’s Dublin gigs). And one thing is for sure: when a four year old in the audience is already excitedly singing along to Leonard Cohen’s songs, his music and poetry are still going to be around long long after we are all gone.

If Writers Were Chocolates: The Mountains to Sea Book Festival 2009

I was volunteering at the inaugural Mountains to Sea Book Festival in Dun Laoghaire last weekend and it was a great few days of excitement, talks by Irish and international authors and - that most precious of all Irish commodities - sunshine! The event was brilliantly organised with the DLR County Council firmly continuing to support arts in the area despite the big R and the list of authors being intriguing and varied.

Something for everyone really and some very pleasant literary surprises for me personally. Which made me think of the Forrest Gump quote ‘Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get’. So instead of giving you the spiel about which books to read and which writers to look out for, I thought, what if writers were chocolates?

Here is my (tongue-in-cheek) verdict. Let me know what chocolate your favourite writers compare to best. 

Dark Chocolate Swirl with Mint Centre: Paul Auster, Siri Hustvedt

Beckett keynote speech on Thursday night delivered with an understated sense of humour and many surprising anecdotes. General sense of sophistication and depth of thought. Mint centre allowing just the slightest glimpse of personality behind the public image. Type of chocolate that would go well with a classy glass of champagne on a cold winter’s night in front of an open fire.

Milk Caramel Heart: Claire Kilroy, Jill Dawson, Sadie Jones

Pleasant, warm-hearted flavour which lifts your spirit without being merely entertaining. In fact, all the stories unfolded into fascinating adventures of the mind and the soul. Exotic locations mixed with local shores. The past with the present. The stark reality of life with the lifelong search for one’s purpose in this world. Satisfying aftertaste leaving you wanting to gobble up another one. And another one.

Honeycomb Crunch: Sebastian Faulks, Patrick Gale, Anne Enright

Witty, refreshing taste with a smooth finish. Unexpected twists and turns along the way. Serious issues balanced out by the lighthearted way of reflecting on them. This is the perfect treat for when you want something substantial yet accessible with the bonus of an added crunchiness factor. 

White Chocolate Coffee Truffle: Douglas Kennedy, Ed O’Loughlin

Wakeup call from your stomach covered in a pleasant layer of approachableness (what a nice chunky, gooey word). Stories that weave from Ireland across the pond and further afield all the way to Africa. An insight into worlds past and present which leave your palate begging for more while still trying to take in the bite that’s currently melting in your mouth. A bouquet of tasty surprises, simply irresistable.

85% Dark Chocolate Log: John Carey, Declan Kiberd, Diarmaid Ferriter

This one goes straight to your head. Distinctive, dizzying, intelligent flavour. It awakens all your senses and makes you immediately sit up straighter in your chair. Makes you hungry for more of its wry sense of humour and tongue tingling facts. A chocolate for the discerning audience who don’t take no for an answer and like a good (culinary) challenge. Delicious.

Dear Festival of World Cultures: A Love Letter

Dear Festival of World Cultures,

You are the best!

You make it worth staying in rainy Ireland in August.

I love the way you attract people from all over the world.

You are so colourful, so bubbly, so approachable.

No other festival compares with you.

No, I’m not just saying that, I mean it. Promise.

You make me smile, you make me dance, you make me want to hug strangers.

You are what you are. The perfect party.

A place where for one weekend in the year Dun Laoghaire (and maybe all of Dublin) is transformed.

Utterly changed into a playing field for those not too old to dream.

But you are popular with people of any age.

You have such a generous spirit, nobody can resist you.

You attract those who have a vision for the world.

Those who not just consume, but want to share and learn.

Musicians and wise women and men, dancers and poets, singers and artists, they all follow your beat.

And I can tell ya that beat is infectious!

You not only feed our bellies with yummy delicacies from all over the globe.

More importantly you feed our souls.

You remind us that we are all human.

Each of us unique but all sharing the same capacity for joy.

And joy is what describes this weekend best.

It is a joy to watch people enjoying themselves.

When the whole crowd is swaying and singing along.

When a mother dances with her child on her hip.

It is a thrill to be part of it all.

To forget our worries for a few hours.

Because that’s what you’re all about.

Smiling and dancing, learning and sharing.

I love you dearly, my beautiful Festival of World Cultures.

Please don’t ever change.

You’re perfect just the way you are.

 

P.S. Tell your mum that she can be very proud of you. Missing you already. Can’t wait to see you again next year. Take care!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

City of Literature: A Magical Weekend At The Edinburgh International Book Festival

When I was a little girl…

…my father used to bring home children’s books from the local library for my sister and me. Part of our family reading ritual was to light a special candle, which was the shape of a walnut but had the size of a grapefruit, to create the right atmosphere for the stories to unfold. We’d huddle up on the sofa together and the fairies and little princesses, the circus elefants and magicians would all come alive in our imagination.

 

 

Maybe it’s due to these happy memories…

…that I’ve always loved stories and listening to someone read them to me. Having been lucky to find a cheap flight to Edinburgh during the August festival season I had been planning to do some general sightseeing (it was my first visit), check out some of the theatre shows and drop by the Edinburgh International Book Festival. Those of you who know me can probably already guess what actually happened. I really did have the best intentions of doing the ‘normal tourist thing’ (=castle visit, JK Rowling cafe, museums, souvenir shops), but my feet just kept dragging me back to Charlotte Square, where - you guessed it - the book festival headquarters were located.

 

 

Despite the terrible weather forecast…

…I woke up to lovely rays of sunshine on the Saturday having arrived late the night before. On the way into town I asked a guy with a dog for directions and we chatted a bit along the way. It turned out that he was a volunteer at The Forest Cafe (similar to Seomra Spraoi in Dublin), which is entirely run by volunteers, I like it. 

 

Anyway, back to the books….

…The moment I walked through the book festival entrance I felt at home. I sighed, I smiled, I said ’yeah’ to no one in particular. Happiness is a meadow full of tents with lots of chairs inside them and people talking and talking and laughing and telling secrets (if you’re lucky). In the middle of all the tents were lots of tables and more chairs and people contentedly sipping coffees, reading the paper and children playing on the grass. There was also a fabulous spiegeltent, a general and a children’s bookshop and two coffee bars (who made pretty good mocha even though wasn’t officially on the menu).

 

 

The first talk I attended was…

…by Pico Iyer, an experienced travel writer whose personality I liked straight away and whose newest book ‘The Open Road – The Global Journey of the Fourteenth Dalai Lama’ seemed intriguing. He’d first heard of the Dalai Lama as a three year old and has had a personal connection with him since his childhood. I can’t wait to read his impression of the person behind the public image of the Dalai Lama (who’s also on Twitter by the way). You could tell from the way Pico talked that he had been hugely influenced by him (and I don’t think it’s a coincidence that he has also interviewed and written about Leonard Cohen, there you go).

 

 

After this perfect start to my festival weekend…

…I reluctantly headed into town to see at least a bit of it and to get some lunch. It must be the year of ‘reunions with people I met in New Zealand’ as I ran into yet another person I’d got to know during my big trip in 2006/07. She was incredibly surprised when she saw me, I just smiled to myself and thought I wonder who of my former travel companions I’m gonna meet next and where. Life is funny.

 

There are a massive 700 events…

…on offer during the book festival, but the reading tents were much smaller than those at the Hay Festival. It made the whole atmosphere somehow really personal and everyone seemed very excited about being here. On top of that, the staff and volunteers were all friendly, helpful and efficient – how refreshing. During the weekend I met book festival visitors from all over the place, a family from Galway, a poet from the Southwest of England, an Italian writer, a publisher from Cork and a group of local Scots who flock to the festival almost religiously every summer. That’s the type of organic community that just puts a smile on your face which stays with you long after the events are over.

 

 

I also volunteered at…

…two of the Imprisoned Writers Series readings run by Amnesty Scotland. We helped set up the posters and information materials and collected signatures for one of their current projects (more here). Every day of the festival the focus of the talk was on a different country or region in the world. Well-known writers such as Henning Mankell and Anne Fine volunteered their time to read extracts from work by writers who are currently imprisoned or got murdered because of their human rights work. The extracts included writing from Russia, China, Cuba, Peru and many other countries. The talks were very moving and made me and everyone else really appreciate what a privilege free speech is when many among us are not able to speak or write freely about the things they care about.

 

 

Needless to say that…

…after my first day at the festival (my ‘bedtime story’ was a reading by Valerie Martin) I was already totally hooked and couldn’t wait to return the next morning. It was a very rainy day on Sunday and after a shortish walk around town and a mocha at Chocolate Soup (great coffee but the manager could have really done with some of Pico Iyer’s insight into Buddhist wisdom) to warm myself up I gave into temptation and hurried back to Charlotte Square for some more readings. I booked a ticket for the talk by Abdel Bari Atwan and Ghada Karmi, two Palestinian writers based in the UK. This was followed by a poetry reading by Sharon Olds. She started off with a humorous poem called Diagnosis which I hugely enjoyed and the rest of the reading turned out to be equally fascinating.

 

 

My last day in Edinburgh…

…couldn’t have started any more perfectly. The Wake Up To Words poetry reading in the Spiegeltent for breakfast with coffee and pastries was an absolute joy. Gillian Clarke (Wales), Lorna Crozier (Canada) and Emma Jones (Australia) all did a brilliant job at easing us into another day of literature and sunshine. Having secured a very last minute ticket to the Jackie Kay reading, I didn’t get disappointed. In fact the whole audience seemed to have been made up of her greatest fans. I kid you not when I’m telling you that I’ve never been to a poetry event before with an atmosphere this close to a gig at a rock festival. Luckily it got taped and you can listen to Jackie read here.

 

There were loads of schoolkids…

…at the festival today. Judging by how many adult visitors were browsing the shelves of the children’s book shop it was not only the little ones, however, who got very excited about the dizzying choice of colourful covers smiling back at them. I wasn’t an exception. My absolute favourite was a book called ‘Harris Finds His Feet’ about a rabbit with very big feet, naturally. The drawings are just gorgeous. Its illustrator and author, Scottish artist Catherine Rayner is the ‘illustrator in residence’ at the festival. Which goes to show that a book festival is not just about intelligent and moving words on paper, but above all about imagination, creativity, inspiration and fun. All of which could be found at the Edinburgh Book Festival in spades, so I can highly recommend a visit next year.

 

 

Favourite moments in Edinburgh

*watching a little girl dancing around in the spiegeltent with her father’s tie tied around her waist

*escaping from the reading tent after I sat for a whole hour beside an elderly gentleman who kept falling asleep on my shoulder (even the people sitting behind me felt sorry for me)

*remembering how lucky we are not to have to be afraid of getting imprisoned or killed because of the things we say or write

*enjoying a mocha and muffin in the sun browsing through my fabulous festival finds

*my chance meeting with a Scottish backpacker in Boots on Princes Street who I first got to know in New Zealand

*having a chat and sharing a smile with friendly strangers in the queues

*finding a shortcut around the square without sinking into the mud of ‘the swamp’ at the far end of it

*discovering a whole lot of exciting new authors from different continents 

 

 

Some more booktastic links to click on:

Westport ‘Fringe’ Book Festival - ran during part of the Book Festival, great idea

Stanza Scotland’s International Poetry Festival - director was chairing a poetry reading, hm, think I want to go

City of Literature Free Walking Trail – unfortunately no time for that this time around but great website

Scottish Book Trust: Books Change Lives – the books that changed someone’s life

Edinburgh Westend Art, Craft And Design Fair - found some great artsy stuff here including these cute canvas prints by graphic designer Kate George 

And for a nice tea and cake break Eteaket on Frederick Street (not too far from Charlotte Square) is just perfect

 

If you’ve read this far you deserve a special treat, a poem called ‘Inside the Yurt’ especially written by Carol Ann Duffy for the outgoing festival director Catherine Lockerbie, enjoy!

Slow Pleasures: Rediscovering Paris One Macaron at a Time

There are a million reasons for returning to Paris again and again. It’s one of those places that is constantly evolving and I never tire of it. My recent trip in August happened to be in the middle of the main tourist season (mon dieu!). But having already visited the main attractions the first couple of times, this weekend was exclusively dedicated to soaking up the atmosphere.

 

Here are some of my favourite things to do in Paris most of which are (even slightly) off the usual tourist trail and will hopefully make your own return visit to the French capital as delightful as mine was this time:

 

FIND

First things first and that usually means getting a guidebook. I absolutely hate dragging around heavy tomes or traffic-stopping maps the size of a small parachute. That’s why I’ve fallen in love with the Cartoville Mapguides. For about 8 euros a pop, they fit into your handbag, feature useful fold-out maps of different areas, handy sightseeing, food and drink tips and are available as Everyman Mapguides in the UK and Knopf Mapguides in the US. Et voila!

 

EXPLORE

I’ve been a fan of the French Open since I started learning to play tennis as a child and loved watching my favourite players battling it out on the red sand of Roland Garros every year on telly. But nothing compares to actually standing on the centre court (seating capacity of 15000), seeing the players’ changing rooms and hearing some behind the scenes stories (never knew that they get a hefty fine if they don’t turn up for interviews after their matches). Roland Garros offers tours in French or English, there is an excellent tennis museum and a souvenir shop too. The metro stop is Porte D’Auteuil.

 

 View of the Centre Court at Roland Garros

RELAX

I’m always on the lookout for the best coffee in town and am especially thrilled if it comes nicely presented with some sweets and a glass of water AND a view of Notre Dame but without a group of noisy tourists at the next table. Such a gem is La Cafeotheque (metro: Pont Marie). Superfriendly and knowledgeable staff, coffee being roasted on site, a choice of mouthwatering speciality coffees and a cosy atmosphere with mainly local customers. If you’ve been on your feet all day exploring the beautiful streets and parks of Paris, step into La Cafeotheque, lean back and enjoy!

 

INDULGE

La Duree (e.g. Rue Bonaparte, metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés) is not your ordinary bakery. It is one of the poshest addresses for macarons (not macaroons, see wikipedia for the difference) and other little treats which tend to go down very well as pressies for loved ones back home. If you feel like treating yourself a bit (or big time), this is the place to go. If speciality teas are more your thing, check out Mariage Freres, a tea connoisseur’s heaven in the Marais area (metro: Madeleine).

 

Some of the dainty delicacies on offer at La Duree

 

PAMPER YOURSELF

While you’re in Rue Bonaparte drop into Aesop for beautiful natural cosmetics from this Australian brand. I first got hooked on them (ah I love my legal drugs) while travelling in OZ and Cate Blanchett also seems to be huge a fan. So now I treat myself to a few pots of of their special potions whenever I get into one of the few shops in Europe. They do mailorder also, but it’s so much more fun to get the products in person. Rue Bonaparte is also one of my most cherished places in Paris as this is where one of my favourite designers, Eileen Gray used to live most of her life. Her E1027 table is simply the best piece of furniture I’ve ever owned. In fact, if you could hug a glass table I would.

 

Do as this kitty does, stretch your legs in a shady spot

 

PLAY

After so much serious pampering it’s time to lighten up a bit and what better way to do that than to jump on one of the many Paris carousels. You may get some funny looks from the 5-year-olds sharing the wooden horses with you (and a cow, what was that all about?), but don’t let that put you off. Give the little ones a cheerful high five and you’re good to go. You can find these marvels of the past at the bottom of the hill of Sacre Coeur on Montmartre (remember Amelie??), in the Jardin des Tuileries, in the Luxembourg Gardens and also in the Parc du Champ de Mars.

 

The carousel by the steps of Sacre Coeur

 

GET INSPIRED

I’ve been very much into artwork by illustrators recently (found another fabulous one in Edinburgh, more later) and came across this artist’s work in the bookshop of the Centre Pompidou. Rebecca Dautremer illustrates mainly young people’s books, the one I took a look at was called ‘Les Princesses’. Here is an interview with her in English to get an idea of how she works. Aren’t the drawings just magical? Both dark and dainty at the same time. Marveilleux if you ask me.

 

rooftop decorations near Centre Pompidou

C’EST TOUT?

Mais non, if you’re still looking for more things to do on a summer’s day in Paris go to one of the free readings at Shakespeare & Co, a quirky bookshop that stocks English-speaking books. Also check out Paris Plages (sand, deckchairs and icecream sellers along the Seine) and the FNAC music festival (free gigs outside the Hotel de Ville including acts like Malians Amadou et Mariam). En fin, after all the excitement of the day head to the Canal St Martin area for a few drinks in one of the many bars and cafes.